Sunday, 4 January 2015

Vegan tortellini




In structural semiotics there is a very important distinction between variants and invariants, as stated by L. Hjelmslev.
The analysis of a text can sometimes be hard when we want to determine the importance of a given expression and one tool is to change one of its terms in order to understand what happens to the meaning of the text itself. When we have commutation, that is a change in the meaning of the given text, that term is an invariant. Otherwise, we have a substitution, a variant.
More specifically, a variant can be free, leading to variations or localized, giving us varieties.

Making order in the world of Italian pasta is a true brainteaser, as each region, if not each city, has its own kind of recipe and shape and many times they share the same name.
The question is: what is a tortellino? What a tortellone?

The recipe for the stuffing of bolognese tortellini has been deposited and it's that I gave you on the first article. So it should be clear that true tortellini are only those made following those rules. At the same time, each shop and each family that produces them in the Bologna and Modena area has its own recipe. They are, in fact, varietes. They always contain Parma ham, Mortadella, Parmigiano Reggiano, nutmeg and eggs. And yet, the proportions vary even greatly.

I took the freedom to call the other recipes given as tortellini, although this approach would not really be orthodox. They are, in fact, variations as they are free interpretations of the concept of tortellini.

In Italy, outside of Bologna and Modena, you can find many shops that sell "tortellini" although the size, the shape and the stuffing are completely different from the traditional ones. Because the concept of tortellini is less rooted. That is, as L. Hjelmslev would put it, because the text has been cut differently and it now includes a wider range of dialects.

To make a long story short, just augment the width and thickness of tagliatelle (i.e. dimensions) and they are no longer perceived as such: they have become pappardelle. Cut a square of pasta sheet 6cm wide (instead of 3cm) and put the required stuffing and you get a tortellone instead of a tortellino. These are commutations that explain what an invariant is.

From now on, then, I will take as primary characters to name pasta the shape and the size, leaving aside the composition of the dough and that of the stuffing, when present.

I started with this introduction because today I present a recipe for vegan tortellini, so not only is the stuffing completely different from the original one, but also the dough falls "outside of the rule". Sfoglia bolognese requires one egg every 100gr of flour, as stated previously. Taking the eggs away doesn't give us a strictly traditional product, but I need to name somehow what I make.
As the desinence "-ino" means small, and the etymology of "tortello/ino" seems to some take origin from the act of the torsion given to the dough, I will call them tortellini.
This blog is meant for people outside of Italy, so the interpreting community has a wider acceptance of what a tortellino is.





Yield: 2-3 servings.

Here's the recipe for the dough:
  • 150gr flour
  • 70ml water
  • 1 spoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2gr curry powder
And here's for the stuffing:
  • 1 can of red beans, drained 240gr
  • 3 garlic cloves
  • rosemary
  • thyme
 Mix the beans with the other ingredients in a blender.

For the broth, you can use the vegetable version given before.



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